full of life, well-written, and richly illustrated with colour plates, Ornamentalism will entice students of the fabric previous and social perform, and people attracted to style reports, manners and morals, gender and sexuality, theater and performance.
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Eight. Ivory busk, Metropolitan Museum of paintings, dress Institute ny, 30. a hundred thirty five. 20. nine. Ivory busk, Metropolitan Museum of paintings, gown Institute, 30. one hundred thirty five. 21. 10. For a dialogue of the 2 genders the noun l’amour may have within the Renaissance, see François Rigolot, “Gender vs. intercourse distinction in Louise Labé’s Grammar of Love,” in Rewriting the Renaissance: The Discourses of Gender in Early smooth Europe, ed. Margaret Ferguson, Maureen Quilligan, and Nancy Vickers (Chicago: collage of Chicago Press, 1986), 289–92. The “elle” during this inscription most likely doesn't check with “la coche,” a ‹fteenth-century time period for a stiffener various from the later busc, a masculine noun (see Feinstein, quoting Patricia Crawford, in “Donne’s ‘Elegy 19,’” 64). yet “elle” may need as its antecedent “la buste,” which Christian Barataud and Danièle Trudeau tentatively de‹ne as a busk of their word list to the 1540s poems of Pernette Du Guillet (Les Rymes de Pernette du Guillet [Paris: Champion, 2006]). eleven. Metropolitan Museum, gown Institute, 30. a hundred thirty five. 38, defined in Frances Little and John Goldsmith Phillips, “A present of Lace and different items of ornamental Ats,” Metropolitan Museum of paintings Bulletin, March 1931, 70. 12. wood busk, 1675, Victoria and Albert Museum, W fifty six. 1929. thirteen. Thomas Shadwell, a real Widow (London: published for Benjamin Tooke, 1679), act three, pp. 36–37. 14. William Habington, The Queene of Arragon (London: published by means of Thomas Cotes for William Cooke, 1640), act 1, scene 1, sig. B2. 15. Thomas Nash, Christs Teares over Jerusalem (London: revealed [by George Eld] for Thomas Thorp, 1613), one hundred forty five. sixteen. Stephen Gosson, “A Glasse, to viewe the satisfaction of vaineglorious Women,” in friendly Quippes for Vpstart Newfangled Gentle-women ([London: through Richard Jhones, 1595]), sig. Br. 17. Trial of Sarah Jenkins for infanticide, The lawsuits of the outdated Bailey, December four, 1754, reference quantity t17541204-33. If busks may be used to hide being pregnant, a lady who stopped donning a busk might be suspected of pregnancy. In John Dryden’s The Wild Gallant (London, within the Savoy: revealed via Thomas Newcomb for Henry Herringman, 1669), act four, p. fifty eight, Isabelle deceives Nonsuch into believing that Constance is pregnant via telling him: “she has now not worn her Busk this fortnight. i believe she’s grown fats o’ th’ unexpected. . . . She has qualmes too each morning: ravins mightily for greenfruit; and swoones on the sight of scorching meat. ” Nonsuch responds “She’s with baby: i'm undone! i'm undone! ” 18. Richard Head, The English Rogue defined, within the lifetime of Meriton Latroon (London: Francis Kirkman, 1668), 84–85 and 131–32. 19. Edward Philips, The Mysteries of affection & Eloquence (London: published through James Rawlins for Obadiah Blagrave, 1685), 14–15. 20. Barnabe wealthy, The Honestie of this Age (London: revealed through Thomas Dawson for James Adams, 1614), 20. ninety eight / ornamentalism 21. Thomas hotel, Wits Miserie, and the worlds madnesse discouering the deuils incarnat of this age (London: published via Adam Islip for Cutbert Burby, 1596), 14–15.